A sandy beach in the south of Portugal (Faro beach, Ria Formosa) was surveyed from the dune crest seaward to 15 m depth 20 times over a period of 26 months. Wave time-series between surveys were analysed to obtain relationships between wave height
and vertical profile variations and to define wave thresholds for important morphological changes. Results show that the active zone of the profile lies between 5 m above and 10.4 m below mean sea level. Based on the pattern of vertical variability, the AA
. divided the profile into 4 cross-shore sectors and calculated thresholds for significant wave height generating important morphological changes in each sector.
Field observations of infragravity waves and their behaviour on rock shore platforms
Cliff ; Coastal dynamics ; Coastal environment ; Coastal erosion ; New Zealand ; North Island ; Sea level ; Shore platform ; Wave
Infragravity wave (IGW) transformation was quantified from field measurements on 2 shore platforms on New Zealand's east coast (Oraka and Rothesay Bay). The observed increase in IGW height over the platform during both experiments is attributed
to shoaling. The proportional increase in IGW height shows a strong correlation to water level on each platform. The rate of shoaling of long period waves on the shallow, horizontal platforms increased at higher water levels resulting in a super elevation
in water level at the cliff toe during high tide. Results from this study show the first measurements of IGWs on shore platforms and identify long wave motion a significant process in a morphodynamic understanding of rock coast.
. The Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN) wave model was applied to estimate wave conditions along the coast during the storm. The results show that the distribution of energy flux explains the distribution of erosion well: The alongshore variability in the cross
Short-term beach rotation, wave climate and the North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO)
Coastal dynamics ; Coastal environment ; Conceptual model ; England and Wales ; Model ; Ocean atmosphere interaction ; Sediment transport ; Storm ; United Kingdom ; Wave
Beach profile surveys, offshore wave climate and variations in atmospheric conditions have been utilized to assess a short-term beach rotation phenomenon in a headland embayment Tenby, West Wales. Several forcing variables related to wind and wave
Subaerial weathering versus wave processes in shore platform development: reappraising the Old Hat Island evidence
Cliff ; Coastal environment ; Coastal erosion ; Coastal geomorphology ; New Zealand ; North Island ; Shore platform ; Wave ; Weathering
One of the longest standing debates in rocky coast geomorphology is whether subaerial weathering or wave processes dominate shore platform evolution. The origins of this debate date to the mid-nineteenth century when the first descriptions of Old
Hat Islands were provided from northern New Zealand. The aim of this study is to provide quantitative data on platform geometry (topographical surveying and Schmidt Hammer hardness testing were conducted on >25 profiles of varying wave exposure
The August 2007 heat wave in North Carolina : meteorological factors and local variability
Air mass ; Atmospheric circulation ; Drought ; Heat flow ; Heat wave ; North Carolina ; Soil moisture ; Spatial variation ; United States of America ; Weather type
A critical aspect of the August 2007 heat wave was the observed variability in heat and humidity across the different geographic regions of North Carolina. The highest maximum temperatures occurred most frequently in the Piedmont and Sandhills
The aim of this paper is the characterisation of the mountain lee wave arising in the Beskid Niski Mts. (Polish Carpathians). On the basis of Podkarpacki Aeroclub documentation of mountain lee wave gliding campaigns, it has been found
to a mountain lee wave in the Beskid Niski Mts. is 7 m.s-1, not necessarily in a stable atmospheric circulation. The paper presents the differences between the properties of the mountain lee wave in the Beskid Niski Mts., and the other major mountain ranges
day period in 2006, it is showed that ice radar-wave velocity and water content varied. It is suggested that during warm precipitation free days, void spaces within the glacier become filled with water, resulting in low radar-wave velocity. This stored
water then drained during cold, high precipitation days, allowing the radar wave-velocity to rise. These changes in englacial storage were caused by the enhanced crevassing generated by the newly floating ice margin, and were associated with accelerated
at the zero sea levels have been quantified and analysed in conjunction with nearshore wave conditions and provenance linked to storm events : (1) storm events occurring during Bora (north-eastern) wind conditions and (2) storm events occurring during Scirocco
(south-eastern) wind conditions. The correlation of shoreface variability as it relates to main recognized rotation events with the wave energy flux and the short-terms effects of nourishment interventions on the shoreface behavior are also investigated.
This article presents a procedure, by which to identify small drainage basins vulnerable to the propagation of abrupt flood waves, and hence to flash flooding, in response to short-duration episodes of very intensive rainfall. Long known
for such local flooding events, basins in the Carpathian were described by reference to a large number of physiographic characteristics of importance to the generation of abrupt flood-wave phenomena. Features found to be associated with an enhanced probability
of the river network. The results of multidimensional analysis provided for the identification of types of basin vulnerable to the flood-wave formation in question. – (BJ)
Asian part of Russia ; Coastal environment ; Ecosystem ; Gravity waves ; Marginal sea ; Marine hydrology ; Pycnocline ; Sea ; Sea of Japan ; Sediment transport ; Thermocline ; Tide ; Water temperature ; Wave
environments : a spray/splash-dominant (occasionally wave-affected) supra-tidal zone, aerosol-affected coastal regions, and inland desert areas. Five of them were taken from the humid temperate zone of Japan and two from the arid zone of the United States