The influence of alongshore and cross-shore wave energy flux on large- and small-scale coastal erosion patterns

Auteur(s) et Affiliation(s)



Description :
Airborne laser data measured in October 2005 and November 2006 were analyzed to estimate cross-sectional changes within the subaerial zone of the Kashima Coast (Honshu). The results indicate that the amount of erosion decreased toward the south in each part and that the amount of erosion was smaller in protected areas with artificial headlands than in unprotected areas. The local alongshore variation of the erosion and accretion patterns showed wavy fluctuations of several hundreds of meters. The Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN) wave model was applied to estimate wave conditions along the coast during the storm. The results show that the distribution of energy flux explains the distribution of erosion well: The alongshore variability in the cross-shore energy flux is responsible for the large-scale variability in erosion, and shorter-scale variability is due to gradients in the alongshore energy fluxes, especially for the areas without coastal works.


Type de document :
Article de périodique

Source :
Earth surface processes and landforms, issn : 0197-9337, 2011, vol. 36, n°. 7, p. 953-966, nombre de pages : 14, Références bibliographiques : 24 ref.

Date :
2011

Editeur :
Pays édition : Royaume-Uni, Chichester, Wiley