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Field observations of infragravity waves and their behaviour on rock shore platforms

Auteur(s) et Affiliation(s)

BEETHAM, E.P.
School of Environment, Univ., Auckland, Nouvelle-Zelande
KENCH, P.S.
School of Environment, Univ., Auckland, Nouvelle-Zelande


Description :
Infragravity wave (IGW) transformation was quantified from field measurements on 2 shore platforms on New Zealand's east coast (Oraka and Rothesay Bay). The observed increase in IGW height over the platform during both experiments is attributed to shoaling. The proportional increase in IGW height shows a strong correlation to water level on each platform. The rate of shoaling of long period waves on the shallow, horizontal platforms increased at higher water levels resulting in a super elevation in water level at the cliff toe during high tide. Results from this study show the first measurements of IGWs on shore platforms and identify long wave motion a significant process in a morphodynamic understanding of rock coast.


Type de document :
Article de périodique

Source :
Earth surface processes and landforms, issn : 0197-9337, 2011, vol. 36, n°. 14, p. 1872-1888, nombre de pages : 17, Références bibliographiques : 56 ref.

Date :
2011

Editeur :
Pays édition : Royaume-Uni, Chichester, Wiley

Langue :
Anglais
Droits :
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