Links between wave forcing, offshore islands and a macro-tidal headland-bound bay beach
Beach ; Coastal dynamics ; Coastal geomorphology ; Coastline ; Intertidal zone ; Island ; Model ; United Kingdom ; Wales ; Wave
Profiles were analysed in conjunction with wave climate to assess offshore island influences on an embayed beach at Tenby, Wales. Time series analyses showed medium and short-term beach oscillation, with volume exchanges between zones lagging by up
to 6 months. Modelled inshore breaking waves had less energy than offshore ones and the former behaved differently between the low and high tidal zones. Variations in wave direction from directly behind the islands resulted in reduced wave heights
and statistical analyses agreed with wave model results. These were correlated to morphological change and it was concluded that offshore islands change wave dynamics and modify the morphology of embayed beaches in their lee. Consequently, this work provides
Short-term beach rotation, wave climate and the North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO)
Coastal dynamics ; Coastal environment ; Conceptual model ; England and Wales ; Model ; Ocean atmosphere interaction ; Sediment transport ; Storm ; United Kingdom ; Wave
Beach profile surveys, offshore wave climate and variations in atmospheric conditions have been utilized to assess a short-term beach rotation phenomenon in a headland embayment Tenby, West Wales. Several forcing variables related to wind and wave