Atlantic Ocean ; Energy resources ; Natural resources ; North Sea ; Wave ; Wind
The oceans of the world represent enormous energy resources. The energetic use of wind, waves and tides has already begun and a number of demonstration and pilot installations have been realized. In the German EEZ (Exclusive Economic Zone) the use
of offshore wind energy stands in the foreground. - (IFL)
Subaerial weathering versus wave processes in shore platform development: reappraising the Old Hat Island evidence
Cliff ; Coastal environment ; Coastal erosion ; Coastal geomorphology ; New Zealand ; North Island ; Shore platform ; Wave ; Weathering
One of the longest standing debates in rocky coast geomorphology is whether subaerial weathering or wave processes dominate shore platform evolution. The origins of this debate date to the mid-nineteenth century when the first descriptions of Old
Hat Islands were provided from northern New Zealand. The aim of this study is to provide quantitative data on platform geometry (topographical surveying and Schmidt Hammer hardness testing were conducted on >25 profiles of varying wave exposure
Canada ; Cold area ; Dendrochronology ; Dendrology ; Ice ; Impact ; Lake ; Lake hydrology ; Lake level ; Lake shore ; Landscape structure ; Quebec ; Space time ; Vegetation ; Wave
The hypothesis tested here is that ice-scars recorded by lakeshore tree stands can be used as an integrative proxy indicator of the overall hydrodynamic disturbance regimes affecting northern lakeshores. This study was conducted on a shoreline
segment located at the extreme east of Corvette Lake, situated in the high-boreal climatic zone of northern Quebec. A significant relationship was found between ice-scar chronology and wave exposure index, which indicates that the mechanical action
and physical force of ice activity mainly depend on the same environmental factors determining exposure to wave action (fetch, wind direction and velocity, and shore slope). The spatial and temporal variability of ice-scar chronology features also corresponded
to the distribution of geomorphological features associated with ice activity along the shoreline. Together, ice-scars and wave exposure index provide essential information to interpret the evolution of lakeshore vegetation mosaics in time and space.
The development of subhorizontal shore platforms by waves and weathering in microtidal environments
Coastal environment ; Coastal erosion ; Intertidal zone ; Model ; Shore platform ; Wave ; Weathering
A mathematical wave and weathering model was used to study the formation of subhorizontal platforms in microtidal environments. Backwearing (horizontal erosion) rates by wave erosion were calculated for different tidal levels using basic wave
equations. Downwearing (vertical erosion) rates by weathering and debris removal by waves at the same tidal levels were derived from long-term laboratory experiments and from field data. Model runs suggested that wave erosion was more important in the past
. They identified paleoshorelines of multiple elevations in the field, which are considered to be relict beach ridges and wave-cut terraces. One hypothesis is that the high lake stands occurred during the wetter period corresponding to the Oxygen Isotope Stage 3
Wave climatology of the southeastern Mediterranean
The wave climate of the southeastern Mediterranean is defined here for the first time by integrating 57 326 visual observations and gauge measurements including wave height, period and direction, from five different sources during the years 1948
The concept of sand waves in stream beds is discussed and the principles for their classification examined. The classification divides waves into two grades| the first covers two subdivisions and the second covers six. Each is defined and described
Wind and waves: influence of local and non-local waves on mesoscale beach behavior in estuarine environments
Coastal dynamics ; Coastal environment ; Current ; Estuary ; New Jersey ; United States of America ; Wave ; Wind ; Wind speed
A 29-day field investigation was conducted on a meso-tidal sand beach in Delaware Bay, New Jersey to document the contribution of local estuarine and non-local ocean waves to beach recovery following storms. Data were gathered on winds, waves, flow
Morphodynamics of intertidal bars in wave-dominated coastal settings - a review
Beach ; Coastal dynamics ; Coastal environment ; Earth surface processes ; Intertidal zone ; Sand bar ; Sediment transport ; Tide ; Wave
variations and wave processes in shallow water depths (swash and surf zone bores), rather than wave height variability and deeper water wave processes (breaking and shoaling waves), that constitutes the main difference between intertidal and subtidal bar
A wave-flume experiment was conducted to examine the formative condition for 3 types of distinctive bedforms that emerged through deformation of existing ripples due to waning wave power. The experiment data were analysed taking asymetry of the flow
Current ; European part of Russia ; Gulf ; Karelia ; Lake ; Lake hydrology ; Ocean wave ; Onega Lake ; Sediment transport ; Standingwave ; Suspended load ; Turbidite ; Velocity
Errors of kinematic-wave and diffusion-wave approximations for steady-state overland flows
Steady-state flows occur in a variety of geophysical processes. Their mathematical treatment is usually based on either the dynamic-wave equations or their approximations: kinematic wave (KW) and diffusion wave (DW). Furthermore, when doing
hydrologic modeling it is not evident if the KW and DW approximations are valid for the entire length of the channel or a portion thereof. The objective of this study is to derive, under simplified conditions, errors for the kinematic-wave (KW
) or the diffusion-wave (DW) approximations as a function of space.
Morphological controls on the downstram passage of a sediment wave in a gravel-bed stream
Bank erosion ; Channel geometry ; Fluvial dynamics ; Fluvial processes ; River bed ; Scotland ; Sediment transport ; Stream ; United Kingdom ; Wave
This study documents the origin and downstream passage of an avulsion-generated sediment wave through a 374 m study reach of the Allt Dubhaig, Scotland. A nested survey framework was adopted, with volumes calculated from cross-sections spaced
between 10 and 40 m apart documenting the origin and downstream passage of the wave. The specific aims of this study are to : 1) assess the significance of local morphology upon the passage of the wave; 2) determine the extent of sediment exchange between
the recipient reach and the wave, and the effect of this upon wave magnitude; and 3) describe the channel response to wave input and assess the transience of these changes.
Wave flume experiments on the formation of longshore bars produced by breaking waves
Mechanisms and processes of longshore bar formation were investigated in connection with vortices induced by breaking waves in the laboratory. Four kinds of wave-flume experiments were conducted using a two-video-camera system to examine
Cold waves and winter monsoon in East Asia : with special reference to south China
Definition of cold waves from the statistical and synoptic climatological standpoints| cold airmass movement stream lines and wind component for the main three types of cold waves in south China| cold waves by the Geostationary Meteorological
Satellite Himawari images in winter 1986/87 and typical cold waves in relation to winter monsoon situations such as the cases in January and February 1963.
Aeolian features ; Barchan ; Comparative study ; Dune ; Earth surface processes ; Experimentation ; Geomorphology ; Wave
The formation of barchan morphologies under the action of purely oscillatory wave motion has not yet been fully investigated. This study attempted to form barchan topography in a wave flume and to compare this with barchans in the field. Barchan
morphologies of ripple size, called the barchan ripples, were generated from a flat bed by the action of waves. This study will examine the migration speed of these laboratory and field morphologies through dimensional analysis.
Development of shore platforms on Kaikoura Peninsula, South Island, New Zealand. Part one : the role of waves
Coastal dynamics ; Coastal environment ; Coastal erosion ; Marine hydrology ; New Zealand ; Shore platform ; South Island ; Wave
The role of waves in shore platform development has been investigated on Kaikoura Peninsula by direct measurement of waves in deep water and on platforms at high tide. This showed that the deepwater wave environment off the Kaikoura Peninsula
is very energetic, but the amount of energy delivered to platforms is very low. An analysis of the role of breaking waves revealed that these are ineffective as an erosional agent because the depth of water offshore causes breaking before waves arrive