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  • Nearshore circulation over transverse bar and rip morphology with oblique wave forcing
  • Atlantique Nord ; Circulation océanique ; Courant marin ; Dynamique littorale ; Etats-Unis ; Florida ; Littoral ; Santa Rosa Island ; Surf ; Vague
  • Coastal dynamics ; Coastal environment ; Florida ; North Atlantic Ocean ; Ocean circulation ; Sea current ; Surfing ; United States of America ; Wave
  • A combination of in-situ current meters and surf zone drifters are used to characterize the nearshore circulation over a transverse bar and rip morphology at Pensacola Beach, Florida in the presence of relatively low energy oblique waves. Current
  • speeds vary in response to the relative wave height ratio (Hs/h), which defines the degree and extent of breaking over the shoal. In the absence of wave breaking the nearshore circulation was dominated by an alongshore current driven by the oblique waves
  • . As waves begin to break across the shoal, the nearshore circulation is characterized by a meandering alongshore current. As conditions became more dissipative, the meandering current is replaced by an unsteady rip circulation that moves offshore between
  • and rip morphology is sufficient to create an alongshore variation in wave dissipation that forces alongshore meandering and low-energy rip circulation systems under oblique wave forcing.
  • 2013