Links between wave forcing, offshore islands and a macro-tidal headland-bound bay beach

Auteur(s) et Affiliation(s)



Description :
Profiles were analysed in conjunction with wave climate to assess offshore island influences on an embayed beach at Tenby, Wales. Time series analyses showed medium and short-term beach oscillation, with volume exchanges between zones lagging by up to 6 months. Modelled inshore breaking waves had less energy than offshore ones and the former behaved differently between the low and high tidal zones. Variations in wave direction from directly behind the islands resulted in reduced wave heights and statistical analyses agreed with wave model results. These were correlated to morphological change and it was concluded that offshore islands change wave dynamics and modify the morphology of embayed beaches in their lee. Consequently, this work provides significant new insights into offshore island influences, shoreline behaviour and especially tidal setting.


Type de document :
Article de périodique

Source :
Earth surface processes and landforms, issn : 0197-9337, 2014, vol. 39, n°. 2, p. 143-155, nombre de pages : 13, Références bibliographiques : 1 p.

Date :
2014

Editeur :
Pays édition : Royaume-Uni, Chichester, Wiley