Field observations of nearshore bar formation

Auteur(s) et Affiliation(s)

AAGAARD, T.

Inst. of Geography and Geology, Univ., Copenhagen, Danemark

KROON, A.

Inst. of Geography and Geology, Univ., Copenhagen, Danemark

HUGHES, M.G.

School of Geosciences and Inst. of Marine Science, Univ., Sydney, Australie

GREENWOOD, B.

Dept. of Physical and Environmental Sciences, Univ. of Toronto, Scarborough, Canada

Description :
The formation of an inner nearshore bar was observed during a 19-hour high-energy event at the sandy beach of Vejers, Denmark. Suspended sediment transport and cross-shore sediment transport gradients were obtained from a cross-shore array of sensors in the inner surf zone. These process measurements showed that a divergence in sediment transport occurred at the location of the developing trough, and observed gradients in cross-shore net sediment flux were consistent with the morphological development. The main cause for the flux gradients were cross-shore gradients in offshore-directed mean current (undertow) speed which depended upon local relative wave height and local bed slope.

Type de document :
Article de périodique

Source :
Earth surface processes and landforms, issn : 0197-9337, 2008, vol. 33, n°. 7, p. 1021-1032, nombre de pages : 12, Références bibliographiques : 25 ref.

Date :
2008

Editeur :
Pays édition : Royaume-Uni, Chichester, Wiley

Langue :
Anglais